Filed under: books, changes, host fam, how we roll, life in Jeju, miscommunication, okay seriously Korea, reading
Considering the typhoon, it was a surprisingly wonderful Sunday.
Full disclosure, as always: We brought the storm on ourselves. My friend G’s host sister, J, told her cheerfully that a typhoon was coming Sunday, but given the fact that no one seemed to be evacuating, we all laughed it off as typical Korean hyperbole.* Also, the two weather words all my students seem to know on their own are “fine” and “typhoon.” I thought this was funny.
I was wrong.
It’s been a rough week anyway for pretty much everyone I know – my friend A said that atmospheric changes were afoot, which explained my desire on Friday to personally throttle every single student in my second grade class, but I don’t know anyone on this island who made it through the week without at least once casting a longing glance back towards American shores. So ending with a Category 4 hurricane isn’t really surprising, I guess. Yesterday was cloudy, a little rainy, but about 75% of the island crew ended up seeing The Bourne Supremacy and/or wandering around looking for entertainment and/or eating Red Mango (finally), eating Indian food, receiving a free coffee mug from the only GNC in the province, and visiting the English bookstore and buying copies of Kingsley Amis’ Lucky Jim and Paul Auster’s New York trilogy. (Okay, the last part was just me.) Then G and my friend E and I went to the jjimjilbang with my host fam, where we all fell asleep on the floor and didn’t leave until 2 AM. At this point: no evacuations, no alarms, no warnings from the Big Brother-style speaker on my wall from which the superintendent declaims. I hope you don’t think I’m joking on that last part.
We woke up this morning with a promise hanging over our heads: pudding, or “ding-pu,” as HB has taken to calling it. (The first time I made it – out of boredom, on another rainy night – he called the ingredients pudding, but after witnessing its metamorphosis into dessert, decided that the name needed a change as well.) Because it was HB’s birthday party day, E and G and I ventured out into the rain to the supermarket down the street and to Paris Baguette for breakfast. It was a walk that would cost us four umbrellas. I had trouble standing upright. By the time we realized how bad it was, however, we were on a mission. Also so wet that it didn’t really matter if we got any wetter.
So we got our chocolate and our sugar and our croissants and sticky buns and green-tea-cream-cheese-pancakey-thing, and headed home, where the power appeared to be flickering, to no one’s consternation but ours. We made pudding by candlelight. We ate pudding and fried chicken with HF and HB’s friends by candlelight. At this point, trees were falling. Then we sat around and talked and read our books, in English, and took a nap, listening to the winds batter the window. When we woke up, the buses weren’t running, so we played Uno with HS.
When we finally made it to the bus station, the streets were flooded, windows were broken, and branches littered the streets. We got E on a bus to Seogwipo and G in her taxi to Hallim, and made it home, where HD, HB, HS and I ate ramen and, because I am forever behind every trend, I read more of the last Harry Potter, again by candlelight. (Side note: I can’t put it down. I wouldn’t call myself a Potter fanatic, but what I love about Rowling is her ability to create a propulsive story – i.e., I always always always want to keep reading.) Then the lights came back on, and I was able to discover that what had actually occurred was Typhoon Nari, with winds somewhere between 131 and 155 miles per hour. Oh.
This is so typical, for us to be here and have no idea that we’re surviving a massive storm. It’s the grand-scale edition of getting on a bus and hoping it goes our way. Welcome to life in a foreign country. My American mother asked me today if people don’t evacuate, and HS said no; I’m not sure if this was the first typhoon to hit the island, or if it was just the first typhoon in a while, based on what she said (see? SEE?), and I don’t know if people are blase or if they’re actually freaking out and they’re just doing it in Korean. You know? I never imagined that I could experience a storm in this way. But then I never imagined a lot of things.
*There is no typical Korean hyperbole. Mistake Number One.
Filed under: changes, host fam, life in Jeju, miguk fam, skool, stuff, teaching
Korean Minkus* was back in class today. I have to say that a) I really kind of love Class 1J** and b) in addition to KM, it has this really adorable fat kid, another one with these sort of weirdly cute crossed eyes, and one (non-fat) student who clearly speaks English pretty well and uses it to be an asshat. That would be the one who told me that his favorite hobby was “studying” and that I was “beautiful, very beautiful.” (Again, how sad is it that the only kids who tell me that are the ones who are blatantly sucking up?) But he’s funny, and tiny, and I like both of those things.
I’m taking my happiness where I can get it this week, so I was happy to see them, and happy to teach “weather words” today – my goal is to push them out of this semester with the ability to answer basic questions about themselves. Ex. Where are you from, and what is it like? Just to be able to get around. That’s all I’m asking.
In the meantime – I spent tonight painting. Some things about Korea still surprise me, like the fact that the dinky, junky 문방국 (stationery store) down the street sells palettes for $2. As I walked with Host Sister today to the store, I couldn’t help imagining the same goal in Tennessee; first I would have to go to Michael’s or Wal-Mart, but it would be a drive, and depending on traffic and what else was going on that day I would probably have to wait until there was another occasion to go…Here we left; we went into this store that, quite honestly, didn’t look like it should have anything worthwhile, and bought a palette with cartoon characters on it; and then we walked to the grocery store across the street and bought Popsicles. I ate a melon bar.
*My brother has a Shawn Hunter*** jacket – a leather bomber with a shearling collar – and one day my sister and I started calling him and my dad “Shawn and Chet,” which always makes me giggle when I remember it, partially because my father is the opposite of a Chet and partially because Chet is a funny name.
**The people who are sponsoring this yearlong vacation have politely requested that we all dissociate our blogs from: the organization, our schools, our families. So from now on, following Laura‘s lead, my organization is now The Program, the people who run my organization are now The People Who Run The Program or possibly The Powers That Be, my school is now My School, my host family is now made of Host Brother (HB), Host Sister (HS), Omoni (Mom), Aboji (Dad). And Class 1J is obviously not named Class 1J. As of right now my friends’ names are staying in, but that might change. If you actually know me and you want more specific information, feel free to comment.
***Did you know that Rider Strong graduated Magna Cum Laude from Columbia? (I accidentally typed in Manga. That must be why I didn’t.)
Koreans seem to love “All You Need is Love.” Everyone knows the Beatles here, and this appears to be the one song on which they all find common ground. And while the assertion that love is all you need may be a debatable one, I feel that as national songs go, there are worse choices.
I haven’t been blogging much lately because I’ve been going through a lot – baggage and struggles mostly, although not entirely, unrelated to The Program, to living in a foreign country, to being surrounded by Americans and then further surrounded by people who are not, to the people with whom I live and will have to live. One of my Korean teachers, Kim ssonsangnim (teacher), kept telling me that I looked sad, probably because I did. But being here for the most part is the best thing for me to have done; I am somewhere entirely new, a place where it is entirely impossible to hide in old thoughts and reside in their physical manifestations.
These circumstances, along with the fact that I have to tell the Program office my exact placement preferences by tomorrow night, have led to me thinking about the line that forms the title of this entry a lot lately. Many people here are dying to go to the mountains or the beach, to work with all girls or all boys or really smart kids or really slow ones. I thought I would have strong opinions one way or another, but honestly, I landed here with very few expectations, and no matter where I find myself, it will be an experience like no other. I wouldn’t mind going to Jeju-do, which is an island at the southern tip of Korea; I wouldn’t mind the mountains. I’d be fine living in a large city, or living in a small city, and even life in a small town would be okay, since it’s not like I know enough Korean to be bored. (Going to the grocery store, I imagine, could take all day.) I don’t think I want an all-boys high school or middle school, unless they’re really high level, and the same goes for all girls, although maybe a bit less so. Whatever happens happens, right? And that’s sort of how I feel about all the things I’ve been dealing with lately. My existence here in Chuncheon is so far removed from any expectations I could ever have had in the past that I find it impossible to be disappointed, and no matter how hard things get for me here, either involving people here or those at home, this is the best thing that could have happened to me. I’m not compromising by being here, and I’m not doing this instead of something better that I didn’t make; whatever happens, I am lucky, and I am supposed to be here. I am sure of it.
I would like to continue with a discussion of tae kwon do and Korean and my skills regarding both, but a wave of sleep just hit me. Soon. (Also soon: more exciting news!)
Filed under: changes
I’m going out for my birthday tonight! I think we are eating mandu (aka dumplings) and then either going to a bar or doing noraebang, which is basically karaoke, and I will give a full report over at Kimchi for Beginners. In the meantime, the Program people are greater than great and have made this birthday the best since the last one, with the Summerbridge people. Again. So much kindness.
I’ve been settling in, and I had kind of a rough night last night, which didn’t exactly help matters, but I’m really, really happy here, even if Korean is hard, really really hard. I promise more details are coming soon.
Intrepid Girl Reporter 
